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FIVE YEARS
IN INDIA
by Henry Edward Fane, aide-de-camp to his uncle, General Sir Henry
Fane, commander-in-chief of the army of the East India Company during
late 1830's, is "a narrative
of [the author's] travels in the Presidency of Bengal, a visit to
the court of Runjeet Singh, a residence in the Himalayan mountains,
an account of the late expedition to Cabul and Afghanistan, voyage
down the Indus, and journey overland to England."
Fane had kept an immaculate journal of his travels from the time
his regiment got orders to move to Ceylon in June/ July 1835, till
he arrived at Falmouth, England, in April 1840. His actual stay
in India was of three and a half years, from August 1836, when he
arrived at Calcutta, to the end of 1839, when he commenced his journey
homeward. The travelogue was published in two volumes, under one
cover, by Henry Colburn, London, in 1842. It was reprinted by the
Languages Department, Punjab, in 1970 in two separate volumes of
16 chapters each.
Soon after his arrival at Calcutta, Fane accompanied Sir Henry on
the latter's inspection tour of Company's military establishments
spread over the Gangetic plain. Travelling by river and road transport
through- cantonments such as Patna, Kanpur, Agra and Aligarh, the
General was in the country around Meerut when, in February 1837,
he received a letter from Maharaja Ranjit Singh inviting him to
attend the marriage of his grandson, Nau Nihal Singh. The commander-in-chief
accepted the invitation. Henry Edward Fane, who accompanied him
to the Sikh capital of Lahore, provides in his book a graphic description
of the visit which lasted from 3 March to 1 April 1837. He describes
the
lavish festivities which took place at Amritsar from where the wedding
party started and at Atari where the nuptial ceremonies were held.
He was deeply impressed by the Maharaja's personality and character.
As he records: "Runjeet,
among his subjects, has the character generally of a kind and generous
master, and one of the best princes that has ever reigned in India.
As evidence of his being a really good and amiable man may be cited
his kindness to children... and the fact of his never having, since
he conquered the country, put a man to death for even the most heinous
crimes..."
Yet Fane was not above the white man's pride and prejudice. For
him Ranjit Singh's army, though trained by European officers, was
no match for the Company's troops in discipline and perfection of
drill movements, and when he witnessed a review of the Sikh troops
again in December 1838, at the time of the meeting between Maharaja
Ranjit Singh and Lord Auckland at Firozpur, he attributed their
better performance on the occasion to "the
extraordinary effect that our expedition to Lahore, in 1837, has
had upon Runjeet's troops."
From among the Sutlej Sikh chieftains, the author was most impressed
by the ruler of Patiala (Maharaja Karam Singh) whom he describes
as "the
largest man I almost ever saw, standing, I should think, six feet
seven or eight, with bone and sinew in proportion.... He has the
character of a good prince, father and son, characters rarely to
be met with among the higher princes and chiefs of India."
His disparaging remarks were reserved for the last of the Great
Mughals, Emperor Bahadur Shah II, actually a pensioner of the East
India Company: "I
did not like the General so lowering himself as to stand in the
presence of a dirty, miserable old dog like this man, after having
been seated in the durbar of Runjeet Singh."
The second volume contains an account of Fane's travels with the
Afghanistan expedition, undertaken to reinstal Shah Shuja' on the
throne of Kabul with a view to checkmating Russian designs, and
his return journey to England. He describes his journey from Firozpur
down the Sutlej and the Indus to Rohri, and then the march through
the Bolan pass into Afghanistan and entry into Kabul, occupying
Qandahar and Ghazni on the way.
At Kabul, Fane joined Colonel Wade, the political agent at Ludhiana,
intending to travel with him through the Punjab on his way to Bombay.
But he changed his plans at Attock where he found another companion
with whom he set out by boat down the river Indus, shifted to a
bigger vessel at Karachi, and reached Bombay on 11 December 1839.
From there he embarked for England on 1 January 1840, reaching his
home country on 13 April 1840.
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